Your generous use of photos and sources make me feel that I can try these ideas, too! Ideas or suggestions, please? I would think that should work… as long as you sand it down good and prime with a good oil-based primer. Good luck!! Appears to be solid wood with varnish? If the varnish is dull, you could probably skip the sanding and jump right to priming.
It diud screw some shelves onto the end of it before. Is there a test I can do to find out if it real wood or some cheapy made hutch?
It has what looks like strips of wood on it. I do have pics if anyone needs them. Can I sand and paint these? What type of paint will not raise or swell the particle wood? Is there an inconspicuous spot that you can do some testing? I think we would try deglossing, priming and painting. Beth, I sincerely appreciate the honesty! I guess I will find out! I posted some pictures of it. I would definitely strip as much as you can before sanding.
GOod luck! I would love to hear the details if you had any luck refinishing this peice! I have a s bedroom set I would like to refinish but I am nervous. I just bought a lovely used table. My daughter says the top is laminate. It is nice,but a little dull looking. What can I use for a little shine? Just bought a nice oak dining room table that has bubbles in the veneer where the sun hit directly on the table.
There are no obvious loose places. Your advice in refinishing to match the perfect leaf that was stored elsewhere. I have a laminate floor in my living room that the previous owner had installed. It is in perfect condition, but I hate the color. It is not a natural wood color, but rather it is light grey. Is it possible to stain it another color? If so, how should I proceed? Thanks so much! Unfortunately, because it is laminate, you cannot stain it.
The only option is painting. Laminate is basically PLASTIC that is printed to look like wood, so if you put stain on it, there would be no woodgrain for it to soak into. There are lots of ideas for painting floors if you want to do a google search! I live in a 10 year old house that has white cabinets. I was wondering if this could be taken off of the whole cabinet doors? Or am I incorrect in thinking that?
If so, what can I expect underneath? Will it be wood that can be painted or stained? Please advise if these types of cabinets can be transformed. HI Janet! If you tear the veneer off the faces of all your cabinets, you might have a bigger project than what you bargained for. Let me know what you decide, and be sure to send pictures!
I have an old desk that the top has what I assume is laminate. I have recently bought a flat eeek! This is great except they are covered in a pretty ugly, orangey laminate which is also coming at the sides. I peeled it off one of the drawers of the cabinet and it came off easily. I think I have the latter, was set to prime and paint, then changed my mind, running out of time and need the room done by mid March.
Just finished staining some of it about ten minutes ago! Thank you for your time and all the information you both include on this sight, soooooo helpful!!! Also, could I use something like Miniwax Polyshades over the sanding that I have already done? Or am I going to have to paint it now? My other bedroom furniture is very dark wood and I just want it to look nice together. I have had it since i was in 8th grade and i am 55 now. I always assumed it was wood. But I decided I wanted to darken it to match my other bedroom furniture and started to sand it a little by hand.
To my surprise I dont think any part of this piece of furture is wood. Some places I may have sanded down a little too far. Im stuck and dont know what to do now. The very top of it is different. If it were us, we would put new veneer on top you can buy rolls of wood veneer at your home improvement store. You might want to do some research about Polyshades and see what kind of experience other bloggers have with this. Nice post. And yet, my OCD is compelling me to share a minor error with your definition of laminate surfacing which, in fact, always contains plastic and is actually not always printed to look like wood grain.
Formica for example comes in God-knows how many different patterns like marble, checker print, you name it. I was in too much of a hurry and purchased a 72 inch double vanity for our DIY master bathroom reno. I really hate the color; but like everything else about it.
It says that it is birch veneer and wood. I want to paint it black. Do I really have to sand prior to painting? I would love to just be able to spray paint the whole vanity with black paint after I use a high adhesive primer. Would that even work? Thank you so much. Leah, does your vanity have a dull sheen on it now? Or is it glossy? If it seems even a little glossy, I would just lightly sand it with sandpaper. This will cut down the gloss and give it more of a matte finish… and that will allow the primer to grab on a lot better.
I have cheap builder grade cabinets that I think is veneer and cheap contact like paper on sides by window and on end of cabinets. As for the paper-like sides, I would just peel as much of it off as possible, and sand it smoother before painting.
Its a mix of polyurethane and stain, so you apply it over the top like a paint. The effect is beautiful. Hi Beth, You are so helpful! Which vanity should I use in the bathroom? Hi I am rather confused and hoping you can help me. I have a gorgeous old antique dresser that has a shiny wood veneer on top with a hardwood underneath. I would like to paint it a darkish teal type of colour with a shabby chic effect.
When it is completely painted, i wanted to sand the edges back to see the wood. I like being able to have a bit of washed look in areas. I have lots of colours in mind! I simply want one colour showing when I sand it back. Hi Lara! Good question! And I would use a flat sheen paint or chalk paint as they will stick better. It should work fine for you! Hi, I have painted an old coffee table, which looks great but i forgot to sand it down before i started, so after quite a few coats the paint is chipping off.
Is there a way i can rescue this table without having to scrape all the paint work off. Many Thanks. Did you seal it with polyurethane? You may end up needing to strip the paint and start over. I bought a great used round pedestal table with the intent of refinishing it. Not the case, I began sanding off the original finish and relaized what I was seeing underneath was partical board or MDF. I also began sanding the base of the table which is round hourglass like curves as if it cam off a pottery wheel and it seems that all of that may be MDF, no wood at all.
Not sure what to do now. Any adive would be a huge help. I am so sorry you are going through this. So, there are a couple of things you can do. Paint it which you mentioned not being interested in , Try and stain it the mdf will be darker and noticeable , or replace the veneer, this is actually not terribly hard and you can usually find veneer online or at a local hardware store.
Is oil based paint the only type of paint that can be applied to laminate? I have a large old laminate wardrobe that I would love to do something with as it is very useful, but, I hate the idea of using oil base paint. Can you suggest any other type of paint? I live a lone so the wardrobe will not be getting a lot of heavy duty wear and tear. Thank you so much, Lis. Send pics when your done!! Thanks for the info! I am painting a bathroom vanity in my new house. Turns out it is laminate!
Yet, I like to turn lemons into lemonade…so I guess I am happy it was laminate because it enabled me to find your site. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge with me. Does the painting laminate hold true for cabinets that have been laminated? We just bought a house that has dreadfully styled cabinets but they are in MINT condition. Could be a real budget saver if we can effectively just repaint them.
Let a pro painter do it? I would definitely make sure you sand them well and use a good oil base primer for ultimate durability since cabinets get a lot of wear and tear. But that would hold true for wood cabinets too.
Thanks for the info. I found it very helpful. I have one question here.. As an expert which one you think is more durable and practical? Veneer or Laminate? Hello there, I am refinishing an old table top and after sanding off the old stain the veneer has been worn down in quite a few areas revealing spots of particle board.
How can I repair these spots so I can stain it? Thanks for your help. One of the difficulties of veneer is sanding. I rarely sand veneer with anything less than grit. Unfortunately we have both learned this lesson through trial. If you stain it the particle board will show because it will not absorb the stain evenly with the rest of the veneer. So you can either choose to call it rustic and live with it or replace that portion if the veneer. I attached a link for you to better understand the process of replacing small portions of veneer.
Hello Thanks for this great information.. Thank you for giving the information. Our furniture agent too used the same technique while laminating our furniture. I think the things you covered through the post are quiet impressive, good job and great efforts. I found it very interesting and enjoyed reading all of it…keep it up, lovely job.. Furniture manufacturers. I know this is a tall order, but if one day you could do a tutorial about how to repair laminate furniture chips, dents etc that would be fabulous.
I know with veneer you can use wood putty, but laminate is a bit trickier: Maude. If it is a painted piece or will be painted then I would say you are OK to use filler or Bondo wood putty.
You can accomplish this by cutting out a section of veneer using a razor blade and a square. Love this tutorial — people never believe me when I tell them that you can paint laminate! Great explanation! Thank you for making that so clear.
And Kenz Interiors by Kenz is right. You are experts! Solid information. And, you are definitely an expert. Thanks for this post. I purchased a nifty little side table at an estate sale that has a great style but has a laminate top.
Because the laminate still looks new, I was thinking I would have to paint the wood portion and leave the laminate. Good to know I have the option of painting the whole piece! Your blog is one of my favorites…. Your email address will not be published. Attention: Almost any do-it-yourself project involves risk of some sort.
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Facebook Instagram Pinterest. And can I paint it? This photo is to demonstrate how thin the layer of wood is.
It allows manufacturers to create furniture, cabinets, and flooring for less money. You canNOT stain laminate. The stain has nothing to soak into, and will literally sit on top of the laminate and never fully dry. It will be a nasty sticky mess forevermore.
You can sand, prime and paint laminate as if it were a solid wood piece of furniture! We recommend using grit sandpaper for this. Best news you heard all day right? Extending Kitchen Cabinets up to the Ceiling. An oak chest may have mahogany veneer. In simpler pieces, durable pine gets dressed up with an oak facade.
With a light hand to avoid sanding too deep, a refinished veneer table looks as good as new. Turn over the table and remove the legs, if possible. If there are bolts with wing nuts, which are nuts with two small tabs, twist the nuts counterclockwise to remove them and pull off the table legs. Where screws fasten the legs, turn the screws counterclockwise with a Phillips or flat-head screwdriver to remove the legs.
Sand the tabletop by hand using a fine-grit sanding sponge or sandpaper and a sanding block, working in the same direction that the wood grain runs. Sand through the finish just enough to reveal the bare veneer. Wipe off sanding dust using a dry rag, and wipe again using tack cloth, which is beeswax-coated cheesecloth.
Sand the table legs until you begin to see bare wood using a medium-grit sanding sponge or sheet of sandpaper. Legs are usually solid wood.
The flexibility of a sponge or sandpaper lets you sand around square or rounded legs easier than with a sanding block. Remove the last bits of finish on the legs using a fine-grit sponge or sandpaper, then switch to super-fine grit for final sanding. Follow this up with a dry rag to help clean up any leftover residue.
Remove all hardware, handles, drawers, doors and legs. You want to ensure that you sand and re-stain every nook, cranny, edge and inside corner. Starting with grit sandpaper, sand the entire piece lightly to remove stain and finish — legs, drawers, sides and around trim. The grit will get rid of gunk and finish. If the sandpaper gums up, move to a rougher grit like 80 grit. If you start wearing through the finish and veneer, move back up to or After the initial sanding, vacuum with a soft brush.
Then use tack cloth for pulling dust and fine particles off. Next sand for imperfections using or grit sandpaper. For a smooth finish, sand with a fine grit of or more. Choose a stain and test it. It might be that your piece has retained some of the original stain color. Test your new chosen stain inside a drawer, underneath or in the back to ensure that the final color is to your liking.
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